May 2002 Archive of Music Software Discussion & Help Page

Music Software Discussion and Help


Archive: May 2002



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Start with the goal and work backwards through the means and too

The short answer: Don't waste your time, just make better use of it.

The long answer:

Since you are in the deep about Linux, which is good, I think
you should be searching Linux - only and Linux - audio sites.
Most folks here are into Windoze. A few MacHeadz hang out here
too.

I too, once considered running a Linux sound system.
I bought Gnome Linux (which is so-so) and reformatted
my PC just for Linux. Unfortunately, that particular Linux
package is NOT simple and media-friendly like AmigaDos (a pre-Linux Unix variant).

I think that unless you wait for current Linux systems to beef up
or tap into the Linux development (programming) community, you're not
going to have much luck. Of course, you could start using Linux to
run Windows and Mac emulators, and then coprocess the audio files using
a few Linux batch commands. But this is too much work with too little reward.

Another option would be to check out old Amiga computer enthusiasts and find
out if any Amigas can be enhanced to match current Windows & Mac capabilities.
I used to have some old computer programming friends who did all of their coolest
sound and animation stuff on Amiga computers. Because it has a Linux-type structure
and true multitasking, it was capable of some interesting automation scripts.

I don't really think that Linux is that much more stable than
other systems anymore, because since it became mainstream, there
has been commercial corruption of the Linux distribution. I noticed
this in my Gnome Linux set, as well. Too much recent Linux software
is designed just to poorly copy Windows (and a few Mac) programs.
This is especially evident with regard to internet tools. Then, Linux systems add
some old fashioned and technical networking protocol command sets that are really
best left to system administrators. There are also tons more configuration files
in Linux, and since it is roughly equivalent to advanced DOS, it's still kind of
a text-based system that happens to run graphical interfaces recently.
Macs still seem to be the only system that is truly graphically based 100%.

I think for stability, there is no substitute for maintennance.
You have been doing just that. The only way to improve upon that is
to find and use better tools for configuration, maintennance, and repairs.

Other than that, you could go back to hardware-based audio systems.
American Musical Supply and Musician's Friend and zZounds and Sweetwater
and SoundChaser could get you into some very stable dedicated audio
systems. Some of them can read & write WAV and AIFF or SD2 files too.

Re: Start with the goal and work backwards through the means and

I agree with dbpms that going to linux is not an
easy thing to do and doesn't have all the advantages
you might expect.

We have also found that there are fewer and fewer
programmers writing specifically for Linux when it
comes to freeware and shareware audio applications
these days.

If you do want to give it a go, try setting Linux
up on an old machine first while you keep your
Windows setup just to test things out.

You will find a large selection of Linux music
software on this site at
<a href="http://www.hitsquad.com/smm/linux/" target="_top">http://www.hitsquad.com/smm/linux/</a>

Jason.

Clavinet sounds for AlesisQS

Hi

I don´t know much about synth sounds/patches, but I need an awesome
"Superstition" Clavinet sound on a CDROM or Q-card for my Alesis QS7. Anyone
know where to get that?

Thanks in advance

home stereo speakers vs cheap nearfield monitors

Right now I monitor through cheap 8" home stereo speakers and was wondering
if there is a big advantage to moving up to nearfield monitors in the $300
to $500 dollar range. (which is all my budget can afford). My setup up
right now is just a simple DAW (gadget labs wave 8/24, samplitude, no
outboud effects or mixer). My main question is would it be better to wait,
save my money and get nice pair of monitors, or will I see a helpful
difference by upgrading to low level nearfield monitor now? The only things
I'm recording right now are my Turntables, S900 sampler and MPC 2000
sequencer so I have no need for mic preamps, mics, etc. (for the mean time).

Another question I have is suggestions on where I should go next. I really
want to learn to use my ears and become an engineer (and hopefully become
really good at it.. :-) instead of just buying a bunch of gear and
"recording". In short, I would like to make music/audio a career (slowly
but surely right...?) Anyway, I'm thinking about getting the golden ears cd
set. I read Fletchers article, "shit on a stick," I don't wanna be that guy
that Fletcher hates, but everybody had to start in the garage right? Sorry
for the rambling, thanks for the help.

spencer

Re: home stereo speakers vs cheap nearfield monitors

I think the most important thing is to listen on a few different pairs of speakers / amps, like home stereo, cd walkman, headphones straight from the soundcard. Once it sounds good on all of these, you have all the bases covered in case anyone else listens to it!

chiselchest

: Right now I monitor through cheap 8" home stereo speakers and was wondering
: if there is a big advantage to moving up to nearfield monitors in the $300
: to $500 dollar range. (which is all my budget can afford). My setup up
: right now is just a simple DAW (gadget labs wave 8/24, samplitude, no
: outboud effects or mixer). My main question is would it be better to wait,
: save my money and get nice pair of monitors, or will I see a helpful
: difference by upgrading to low level nearfield monitor now? The only things
: I'm recording right now are my Turntables, S900 sampler and MPC 2000
: sequencer so I have no need for mic preamps, mics, etc. (for the mean time).

: Another question I have is suggestions on where I should go next. I really
: want to learn to use my ears and become an engineer (and hopefully become
: really good at it.. :-) instead of just buying a bunch of gear and
: "recording". In short, I would like to make music/audio a career (slowly
: but surely right...?) Anyway, I'm thinking about getting the golden ears cd
: set. I read Fletchers article, "shit on a stick," I don't wanna be that guy
: that Fletcher hates, but everybody had to start in the garage right? Sorry
: for the rambling, thanks for the help.

:
: spencer

Re: home stereo speakers vs cheap nearfield monitors

Denon makes some very nice 400 dollar studio monitor type speakers.
I have auditioned them, and they are very rewarding. They are small
yet have the best imaging I have ever heard. I've spent some time
in studios auditioning other kinds of more reputable studio monitors
from Genelecs, Yamaha, Mackie, and others. I've even heard some nice
planar speakers.

The best overall speakers I've ever heard in a studio
which didn't exaggerate the sound were Mackie 824s. These
speakers have built-in amplifiers (and perhaps digital inputs) so
they are tailored to precision. They are also matched pairs. They
are expensive, but the kind of speakers you could retire with. The bass
is everything you ever wished for.

The issue with recording and speakers, is that EQ changes will
always be distorted unless you are using FLAT-FREQUENCY-RESPONSE
speakers. The flat frequency response is also only valid at a certain rated
amplitude and distance, and good placement in the room is critical.

Good speakers will also have low distortion, perhaps most easily
shown as THD or THD+N. +N = noise. Almost all speakers have distortion
at around 5%, which is much higher than amplifier ratings which are usually
less than 1%. Distortion is obviously bad, and most good studio monitors
are designed to minimize distortion. Most consumer speakers add different
types of distortion, and also add their own odd EQ, or coloration.

Regardless of which speakers you use, you must use them correctly in recording.
This means setting up the speakers and the amplifier and your workstation to their
optimal settings.

I tested my amplifier for it's highest amplitude before distortion using a CD
I burned of a 20kHz sine wave. I discovered that even though I can barely hear it,
it causes an audible distortion at only 30% volume. From this I learned that just
below 30% amplitude is the optimum level for my amplifier. Above this, I know that
there is too much distortion. Below this level, there is maybe not enough audio, and
sometimes too much static or noise, or the audio is muffled.

This helped me out a lot when I started experimenting with other speakers and
speaker configurations. Another special issue is the resistance of your speakers.
Speaker resistance will affect your amplifier's distortion, so be sure to try out
different things. On my system, higher resistance speakers allow my amplifier to
be run at it's optimum volume (just below 30%), without being too loud, so they
sound better than lower resistance speakers. It will vary on each system.

Personally, I have found for recording, that experimenting with a collection of
good sounding CD's will help guide you. I have a few CD's that sound good on any
speaker/amplifier system. These CD's are perfect for testing out my system.
I can manipulate the EQ and speakers and cable density and placement until I find
the combo that sounds best while playing the well-mastered CD's. These are my reference
CDs. I have found that after using those CD's to audition my system, I can better
understand how to improve my playback sound system.

Now, when I listen to a new CD, I can tell whether or not it was
produced and mastered well. This is the goal of a studio monitor
system. You need to be able to hear if the production and mastering
sounds good. You also need to be able to hear if the EQ changes are
good or bad. Without good monitors, you won't be able to tell.
Bad CD's will sound great, and great CD's will sound bad, and it will
all fluctuate drastically according to other factors such as what volume
level you listen at.

Another issue is amplitude compression. Recently I put a
compressor between my CD player and my amplifier. Amazingly,
with the correct settings, my system sounds much much more professional,
and I can better control the volume independantly of the amplifier's 30%
nominal volume. I just keep the amplifier at 30% and control the compression
instead of the volume. I found a way to keep the amplitude constant, but the
audible volume variable. This is why compression is so powerful. Also, with
a bit of compression, I have reduced both high-frequency and bass distortion.

Different types of speakers will do this kind of thing mechanically by preset
design rather than by external hardware circuits. Some manufactures also use
electronics to compensate for physical and mechanical challenges. The end result
is a system that can accurately reproduce what you give it.

The trickiest thing about that, is how rare it is.
Most people don't listen with professional systems, so
the only true advantage is having a system that allows
you to hear your EQ and panning and imaging changes.

I used to use cheaper shelf speakers that I had tweeked to
sound fabulous. They made all of my CD's sound fabulous. I added
a second pair to enhance them too. Unfortunately, this made all of
my subsequent EQ changes to my songs too erratic. Essentially, my
older system sounded so good because the speakers were EQing the music.

This brings us to another issue. For music composition, you must
take time to audition your songs on a huge variety of systems. This
will let you know what kinds of sounds stay constant, and what sounds
change a lot from system to system. A great place to try this out is
Best Buy. Just bring a few your recently burnt CD's to Best Buy when
you have a few minutes to spare. Turn off all of the audio systems except
for the one you are listening to. This could be hard, since Best Buy is
so noisy and busy, but it's worth it. Try out different systems at different
volumes and at different settings. Always check out a system in the plain,
unenhanced mode; that will be the most revealing about each system's limitations.

I know I have probably told you more than you asked for, and not
enough about what you asked for, but I hope it helps you nonetheless.

Music production is a way of life, not a goal.

Re: home stereo speakers vs cheap nearfield monitors

Hi Spencer

Well, as a fellow newbie, I can tell you that my recording and mixing
experience has been transformed by switching from half-decent hi-fi speakers
(Infinity 21i's and Arcam Alphas) to comparatively cheap monitors (Spirit
Absolute 2's). The monitors are far crisper, more detailed, snappier in
their transients and, it would appear, more accurate in their frequency
response. They also image better. Lurking horrors in mixes have leapt out at
me when, previously, they would only become apparent when playing a track on
some peculiar other system (a boombox, someone else's hi-fi, a car stereo or
whatever).

Properly designed monitors are intended not to flatter the mix, whereas
hi-fi speakers seem to be desirable (and glowingly reviewed) when they
impart a warm colouration to the music, and even when they blur the edges a
bit.

I listened to loads of monitors before I bought mine. You should do the
same. Go for a pair that are unflattering to the music but not harsh in the
highs and high-mids as so many cheapies are; otherwise you'll suffer rapidly
from listening fatigue. Fearing fatigue I ruled out the Behringer Truths
immediately, and the Alesis Monitor Ones after more agonising. I rejected
the little Roland things (D50s, are they?) because they seemed undetailed
and a bit flat. I compared the Spirits with similar-sized Genelecs (I forget
the model number) and thought, hey, for a third of the price the Spirits
achieved pretty much the same (a clear window on to the music) even if the
colouration was rather different.

The bottom line in monitors, it seems to me, is that you want as close to a
full, flat frequency response as possible, with excellent transient response
and plenty of high-end detail but not at the expense of harshness. Beyond
that, you simply have to adjust your ears to the pair you buy and learn how
to compensate for the inevitable idiosyncratic colouration. Listen to lots
of commercial CDs on them.

I obviously have an interest in thinking I made the right choice but you
could do worse than listen to the Spirit-by-Soundcraft Absolute series (they
come in "2" and "Zero" flavours). The Zeros are a little smaller and have
slightly less bass extension (50Hz instead of 45Hz on the 2's, according the
spec anyway) but the Zeros, which are a bit cheaper, are a more recent
design and have zarjaz waveguides for the tweeters and wotnot. They sound
incredibly good for their size. I really couldn't decide but eventually
plumped for the 2's because I wasn't about to lash out on a subwoofer to add
bass extension.

On the other hand, I know a commercial recording studio that produces superb
mixes that get plenty of radio play with no more monitoring than a pair of
Absolute Zeros.

Spirit-by-Soundcraft products seem comparatively hard to find in the US, but
you could persevere. These monitors are ridiculously cheap for the quality
you get.

Here's the Soundcraft website:

http://www.spirit-by-soundcraft.co.uk/

Don

: Right now I monitor through cheap 8" home stereo speakers and was wondering
: if there is a big advantage to moving up to nearfield monitors in the $300
: to $500 dollar range. (which is all my budget can afford). My setup up
: right now is just a simple DAW (gadget labs wave 8/24, samplitude, no
: outboud effects or mixer). My main question is would it be better to wait,
: save my money and get nice pair of monitors, or will I see a helpful
: difference by upgrading to low level nearfield monitor now? The only things
: I'm recording right now are my Turntables, S900 sampler and MPC 2000
: sequencer so I have no need for mic preamps, mics, etc. (for the mean time).

: Another question I have is suggestions on where I should go next. I really
: want to learn to use my ears and become an engineer (and hopefully become
: really good at it.. :-) instead of just buying a bunch of gear and
: "recording". In short, I would like to make music/audio a career (slowly
: but surely right...?) Anyway, I'm thinking about getting the golden ears cd
: set. I read Fletchers article, "shit on a stick," I don't wanna be that guy
: that Fletcher hates, but everybody had to start in the garage right? Sorry
: for the rambling, thanks for the help.

:
: spencer

test - ignore

testpost<a href=http://www.dolpien.com/><img src=http://www.vyoo.com/blink.gif border=0></a><a href=http://www.narkyt2.com/><img src=http://www.vyoo.com/blink.gif border=0></a><a href=http://www.narky.net/><img src=http://www.vyoo.com/blink.gif border=0></a>

Zeta-3 -> MCI cable help needed

Zeta-3 -> MCI cable help needed

This popular thread has been given its own page : Zeta-3 -> MCI cable help needed

To Demolish to Not to Demolish

Hi,

I am building a new recording studio in a commercial building. Most of
the existing "standard office grade" walls have been demolished in
preparation for construction. However, there is one very long office
grade wall that is in the exact location of a new soundproofed wall
slated to be built. Here is the question. Do I leave it in place and
build a soundproofing wall on both sides of it or whould I get better
low frequency blockage by demolishing the existing office wall and then
building my two sound blocking was as normal. The soundproofing walls
are the standard...three sheets of drywall, metal studs, insulation,
metal studs and three layers of drywall again.

Thanks,

Scott

Re: To Demolish to Not to Demolish

:
: I am building a new recording studio in a commercial building. Most of
: the existing "standard office grade" walls have been demolished in
: preparation for construction. However, there is one very long office
: grade wall that is in the exact location of a new soundproofed wall
: slated to be built. Here is the question. Do I leave it in place and
: build a soundproofing wall on both sides of it or whould I get better
: low frequency blockage by demolishing the existing office wall and then
: building my two sound blocking was as normal. The soundproofing walls
: are the standard...three sheets of drywall, metal studs, insulation,
: metal studs and three layers of drywall again.

I'd say leave it. It might be a load bearing wall. Rip that out and you'll have
one hell of a headache. It might be worth hiring an architect for a few hours.
If it's an office grade wall it might have a lollycolumn in the middle. Get
blueprints for the building or talk to the super.

---
-Jay Kahrs
Owner - Chief Engineer
Mad Moose Recording Inc.
East Rutherford, NJ
http://www.madmooserecording.com

"Difficult is what the studios that aren't up to par call it.
Demanding is what the studios that are up to par call it."
B. Blackwood

Re: To Demolish to Not to Demolish

: Get blueprints for the building or talk to the super.

Good advice! I'd take it if I were you.

You should also be *very* aware of local Fire code requirements and stick
to them like glue!

Tim L
--
Blue Bass Recording
Port Jefferson Station NY

surround monitoring on a budget

I have a budget of $400-$800 for getting a surround system (5.1 receiver and
speakers) for electronic music composition in home studio (10' X 8'). The 6
channels come out of a Mac. (Reasonably) flat frequency response would be
desired. Anyone knows if I can do it within my budget?

Re: surround monitoring on a budget

Gang,
This is one of the "gotcha's" of surround: With any given budget, you can split
it two ways or five ways. One gives you more sound, one gives you better
sound. Scotty might as well have said, "I canna change the laws of economics."

Sorry, Middle, I have no advice for you (Radio Shack?), only this rant.

Yours,
Dan Popp
Colors Audio
USA

: I have a budget of $400-$800 for getting a surround system (5.1 receiver and
: speakers) for electronic music composition in home studio (10' X 8'). The 6
: channels come out of a Mac. (Reasonably) flat frequency response would be
: desired. Anyone knows if I can do it within my budget?

Re: surround monitoring on a budget

I agree w/ Dan's post, but if you really have your heart set on doing a
surround system, you may come close to your budget, and end up with
something pretty close to decent as follows..

Shop around for a used Yamaha receiver that does 5.1.. I picked an HTR-5280
at a Sears scratch'n'dent sale for around $300, instead of the list of $799
or whatever. It's an amazingly good sounding receiver; my audio system is
powered by Hafler XL-280 amps and the Yamaha is used only in my psuedo-home
theatre, but it sound much, much better than any other middle-of-the-road
consumer receiever I've ever owned.

Then.. pick up 5 NHT Super Zero's at around $100 a piece. They have no..
not a little.. NO low end below about 100 hz, but from there up they are
quite a good bang for the buck. Build a subwoofer using that NHT 12" driver
that got so much web-space on all the DIY speaker lists .. I can't remember
the model #, but the driver, if memory serves, can be had for around $130.
Figure another $40 for cabinet materials if you want it nice, $25 if you
want it ugly. Pick up another cheap used amp somewhere to power it. You've
got about $1000 invested, but you should end up with a system that's far
more listenable than the mass-market cube systems out there selling for
close to 1/2 that price for about 1/100th the sound.

Just an idea. Another option.. the Hafler M5 monitors sound pretty good,
too, for $100 each, and have more bottom than the SuperZeros. You may be
able to live without a subwoofer with those.. then again, you may not.
Depends what you're doing. Like Dan said, you're not gonna get five
channels of great sound cheap. Where would you most be willing to
compromise?

Barry

: Gang,
: This is one of the "gotcha's" of surround: With any given budget, you can split
: it two ways or five ways. One gives you more sound, one gives you better
: sound. Scotty might as well have said, "I canna change the laws of economics."

: Sorry, Middle, I have no advice for you (Radio Shack?), only this rant.

: Yours,
: Dan Popp
: Colors Audio
: USA

: : I have a budget of $400-$800 for getting a surround system (5.1 receiver and
: : speakers) for electronic music composition in home studio (10' X 8'). The 6
: : channels come out of a Mac. (Reasonably) flat frequency response would be
: : desired. Anyone knows if I can do it within my budget?

Midi file format information.

Hello.

I'll make a program that can generate midi file. Where I can get that
information. I want to know the specification for the midi file.

Re: Midi file format information.

: Hello.

: I'll make a program that can generate midi file. Where I can get that
: information. I want to know the specification for the midi file.

GO here www.borg.com/~jglatt
What you need is the Midi File Spec from the site.

--
Barry Graham
Top Brass Events Band
Melbourne, Australia

HELP ME!!! (recording on CoolEdit)

Hello.

I'm having a problem with my CoolEdit program. I had assumed it worked
similar to my four track. I plug the (excuse my ignorance of music
recording/computer terms) connection cable from the headphones/aux out
of the keyboard into which ever track I want to record on the four
track. While I'm recording I can hear what I'm playing. The problem
I'm having with CoolEdit is when I plug the keyboard into the
microphone input it will record but I can't hear what I'm playing out
of the headphone jack on the computers speakers. Can I plug it in
somewhere else? Is the microphone input going through the sound card?
Please help, I'm starting to feel like beethoven and definitely not
as good. Thanks a lot colleen

Re: HELP ME!!! (recording on CoolEdit)

: Hello.

:when I plug the keyboard into the
: microphone input it will record but I can't hear what I'm playing out
: of the headphone jack on the computers speakers.

That's a function of the sound card in your computer. The term is "duplex" and
it isn't. It can't play back what it's recording.

If your keyboard has two outputs, use one for the headphones and the other for
the computer, but it doesn't sound like you have this option. You could send
the signal to your 4-track and then to both the computer and the headphones.

Re: HELP ME!!! (recording on CoolEdit)

First off, you don't want to use the Microphone input; wrong impedance, and
too much gain. Use the line input.

Also, open your Windows volume control and make sure your Line Input (or mic
input) is un-muted and turned up. Then go to the Options menu and select
Properties. On the box that comes up, select "Recording". Press OK, and
you'll get the Recording Control mixer. Set your Line In volume and select
it as your source (if you use Line In instead of Mic In).

: Hello.

: I'm having a problem with my CoolEdit program. I had assumed it worked
: similar to my four track. I plug the (excuse my ignorance of music
: recording/computer terms) connection cable from the headphones/aux out
: of the keyboard into which ever track I want to record on the four
: track. While I'm recording I can hear what I'm playing. The problem
: I'm having with CoolEdit is when I plug the keyboard into the
: microphone input it will record but I can't hear what I'm playing out
: of the headphone jack on the computers speakers. Can I plug it in
: somewhere else? Is the microphone input going through the sound card?
: Please help, I'm starting to feel like beethoven and definitely not
: as good. Thanks a lot colleen

Re: HELP ME!!! (recording on CoolEdit)

can you try the line in on your sound card.
check the audio mixer properties, maybe your mic input is disabled.

: Hello.

: I'm having a problem with my CoolEdit program. I had assumed it worked
: similar to my four track. I plug the (excuse my ignorance of music
: recording/computer terms) connection cable from the headphones/aux out
: of the keyboard into which ever track I want to record on the four
: track. While I'm recording I can hear what I'm playing. The problem
: I'm having with CoolEdit is when I plug the keyboard into the
: microphone input it will record but I can't hear what I'm playing out
: of the headphone jack on the computers speakers. Can I plug it in
: somewhere else? Is the microphone input going through the sound card?
: Please help, I'm starting to feel like beethoven and definitely not
: as good. Thanks a lot colleen

Reveal MusicStar Keyboard - A/C adapter question

I picked up a Reveal MusicStar keyboard at a flea market/swap meet.

Unfortunately, no A/C adapter.

Any idea what the polarity (positive or negative tip) and
milliamps rating is on the A/C adapter that comes with the
keyboard?

Thanks in advance.

midi to band in the box utility

Is there a utility for converting a large number of midi files to Band in a
Box files?
thanks

Any midi controlled soft CD players??

I would like to get a software CD/MP3 player that I can
start/stop/rewind/etc using programmable midi commands that I can send
from across the room @ my midi control station.

thx for any recommendations,
frenchy

Re: Any midi controlled soft CD players??

Nice Idea but I never have seen such software

D
;)

: I would like to get a software CD/MP3 player that I can
: start/stop/rewind/etc using programmable midi commands that I can send
: from across the room @ my midi control station.

: thx for any recommendations,
: frenchy

how do i convert GM files to XG

Info please , how do i convert my old GM midi files to XG files

TIA

Re: how do i convert GM files to XG

: Info please , how do i convert my old GM midi files to XG files

GM play fine on XG, but if you want to add XG features, all you need
is some program which lets you add XG specific information easily.

You can use the dedicated XG Editing programs like XGEdit95 -- load
a file, then make changes using its interface until the remix sounds
nice.

You can use a sequencer program with some XG editing environment.
Yamaha's XGWorks is perfectly intergrated, naturally. Cakewalk,
Cubase, and Logic all have environments for XG editing. Plus you can
use the separate XG editing tools along with them.

Converting isn't really what you're doing though. It is remixing,
and sometimes, additional sequencing.

Once you get the basic mix, it is tempting to add additional
controllers to exploit the expression that XG synths allow. Doing a
track of just filter controls, for example, or any other sort of
effect change, can make the things come to life. If you want to add a
true wah-wah guitar sound to the guitar track, the only way to do that
is to play the wah effect via MIDI controllers (even a nice pedal or
wheel, if you happen to have such a hardware controller which is
mappable).

Eventually, you might think about redoing certain tracks to
specifically exploit the features of the XG synth, playing the notes
differently in order to mesh with the effects and other controllers
you are using.

But the start of it all is a basic remix, using some XG editing
software. Just changing the instruments and effect parameters for
reverb and chorus can make a big difference.
--
*-__Jeffery Jones__________| *Starfire* |____________________-*
** Muskego WI Access Channel 14/25 <http://www.execpc.com/~jeffsj/mach7/>
*Task Force Games* <http://www.task-force-games.com>
*Starfire Design Studio* <http://www.starfiredesign.com/>
*Graphic Reflections and Websites* <http://www.execpc.com/~jeffsj/>

FINALE NotePad Files

Hi all.

I have a dozen or so songs I created in the shareware version of
Finale "NotePad". The file type is ".MUS". Is there anyway I can save
these files as wave files or midi??, given that playing them via
soundcard (SB16) and attempting to sample/record through Cool Edit
doesn't work?

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Wes

Re: FINALE NotePad Files

I don't know about this "notepad" finale but in my version of finale, you
can load a .MUS and go in file -> save as, and then select the save type as
midi to save a .MID format file.

- muik

: Hi all.

: I have a dozen or so songs I created in the shareware version of
: Finale "NotePad". The file type is ".MUS". Is there anyway I can save
: these files as wave files or midi??, given that playing them via
: soundcard (SB16) and attempting to sample/record through Cool Edit
: doesn't work?

: Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

: Wes

Re: FINALE NotePad Files

Hi guys. Thanks for all your ideas. I've tried a few of them
(unsuccessfully)before but I'll keep on trying.

Many thanks

Wes

Re: FINALE NotePad Files

Wez, if you are happy with the Finale product, but it does not save as 'mid' then you might consider going up to the next version - I think it is Allegro, which is still affordable, or if you are really interested in composing, arranging etc.. even something like Sibelius if you can afford it! This will allow you to save as .mid.There is a terrific Roland product which is available from www.binarydesigns.com.au which will then convert the midi file to .wav and will allow you to record it with synth sound - really good quality playback - realistic instrumentation. I am just waiting delivery of this product myself and have heard it in operation. Really works well.

Re: FINALE NotePad Files

Cool edit doesn't do midi, have you got a midi keyboard with an onboard
sequencer...??? if so hook this up with your soundcard and set the sequncer
on your keyboard to record, playback the file via your soundcard. Once it's
in your keyboard, if it has a floppy disk drive built in you can save it as
a standard midi file or playback from you keyboard to record it back to your
pc into a normal sequencing package and save as a midi
file......done.....bit of a convulted way of doing it but it can
work....Mark.

: Hi all.

: I have a dozen or so songs I created in the shareware version of
: Finale "NotePad". The file type is ".MUS". Is there anyway I can save
: these files as wave files or midi??, given that playing them via
: soundcard (SB16) and attempting to sample/record through Cool Edit
: doesn't work?

: Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

: Wes

Re: FINALE NotePad Files

: Cool edit doesn't do midi, have you got a midi keyboard with an onboard
: sequencer...??? if so hook this up with your soundcard and set the sequncer
: on your keyboard to record, playback the file via your soundcard.

Or an other, old, cheap computer set up to record and play back MIDI.
Today, you acn find old 486s computers for 5 to 25 $ at flea markets
and they are perfectly adequate for this kind of task.

:Once it's
: in your keyboard, if it has a floppy disk drive built in you can save it as
: a standard midi file or playback from you keyboard to record it back to your
: pc into a normal sequencing package and save as a midi
: file......done.....bit of a convulted way of doing it but it can
: work....Mark.

: : Hi all.

: : I have a dozen or so songs I created in the shareware version of
: : Finale "NotePad". The file type is ".MUS". Is there anyway I can save
: : these files as wave files or midi??, given that playing them via
: : soundcard (SB16) and attempting to sample/record through Cool Edit
: : doesn't work?

: : Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

: : Wes

Re: FINALE NotePad Files

You should be able to record through Cool Edit if you have the input
devices set properly under options and the input selected under record
on the Windows mixer.

: Hi all.

: I have a dozen or so songs I created in the shareware version of
: Finale "NotePad". The file type is ".MUS". Is there anyway I can save
: these files as wave files or midi??, given that playing them via
: soundcard (SB16) and attempting to sample/record through Cool Edit
: doesn't work?

: Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

: Wes

Re: FINALE NotePad Files

Notepad is a free program. So, I'll bet Finale coded it in such a way (or
left out the code needed) so you can't do that.

: Hi all.

: I have a dozen or so songs I created in the shareware version of
: Finale "NotePad". The file type is ".MUS". Is there anyway I can save
: these files as wave files or midi??, given that playing them via
: soundcard (SB16) and attempting to sample/record through Cool Edit
: doesn't work?

: Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

: Wes

type 0 and 1 channel & track limits

i'm wondering if anyone can tell me:

what the total no. of tracks available is in a type 1 midi file

total no. of channels allowed in a track is in type 1

as well as channel limits in type o

thank you

Re: type 0 and 1 channel & track limits

Channel limits should be the same for both file types, the only difference
between type 0 and type 1 is that type 0 merges all tracks into one,
although they will still show as separate tracks on your sequencer whereas
type 1 will leave all individual tracks as they are...poss something to do
with the way the file types save onto disc to save disc space (sort of
compression of files if you like)
There is also type 2 but this is rarely, almost never, used, I've certainly
never come across any type 2 files and don't know of any kit capable of
reading those type files
Regards.......Mark.

: i'm wondering if anyone can tell me:

: what the total no. of tracks available is in a type 1 midi file

: total no. of channels allowed in a track is in type 1

: as well as channel limits in type o

: thank you

Re: type 0 and 1 channel & track limits

I'm confused about which one is better in terms of compatibility with most
people's software? I put little MIDIs I make on my website, but most of the
people that visit it don't have any software except maybe Windows Media
Player.

I put it in type 1 because that's what most of the files I get are in, but I
remember seeing that more players could read type 0. Which gives me the best
chance of letting people read it?

Adam Bravo
http://www.angelfire.com/jazz/bopswing

: Channel limits should be the same for both file types, the only difference
: between type 0 and type 1 is that type 0 merges all tracks into one,
: although they will still show as separate tracks on your sequencer whereas
: type 1 will leave all individual tracks as they are...poss something to do
: with the way the file types save onto disc to save disc space (sort of
: compression of files if you like)
: There is also type 2 but this is rarely, almost never, used, I've certainly
: never come across any type 2 files and don't know of any kit capable of
: reading those type files
: Regards.......Mark.

: : i'm wondering if anyone can tell me:

: : what the total no. of tracks available is in a type 1 midi file

: : total no. of channels allowed in a track is in type 1

: : as well as channel limits in type o

: : thank you

Re: type 0 and 1 channel & track limits

: I'm confused about which one is better in terms of compatibility with most
: people's software? I put little MIDIs I make on my website, but most of the
: people that visit it don't have any software except maybe Windows Media
: Player.

: I put it in type 1 because that's what most of the files I get are in, but I
: remember seeing that more players could read type 0. Which gives me the best
: chance of letting people read it?

Type 0 probably gives you the best chance (by a slim margin), but
since Media Player plays Types 0 and 1, you have to decide if you
want to bother accommodating the rare few who choose to use
something less capable than the default that comes with all
Windows computers. Same general rationale for folks running
MACs.

If you rely on sysex in your MIDIs, I wouldn't be a bit surprised
if a fair number of plug-in players designed to handle web page
content don't pass it on.

--
Jim Higgins, quasimodo AT yahoo DOT com

alt.music.midi FAQ - http://home.sc.rr.com/cosmogony/ammfaq.html

Mini Disc to Computer

I am looking to buy a personal mini disc player/recorder. The models I
am looking at all have the digital PC link. I know that it can
transfer songs from the computer to the device, but can you put songs
that you record to the mini disc player on the computer? I am
intrested because I would like to record recitals and then burn them
onto a cd. Any help is appreciated!

Thanks,
Andrew
(First time poster on this ng)

Re: Mini Disc to Computer

I'm a little late in posting, but when I looked at portables, none of them supported digital transfer back onto the PC at all. I bought a Sony MZ-R700DPC (with the Xitel DG-2 USB/optical unit) but that only works for transferring music from PC to minidisc player, not the other way around. The MZ-R700 has a powered mic jack and a line-in/optical-in built into the same jack, but none of these function as a signal-out. The headphone jack is the only way of getting any signal back out.
...
The manual says to get a patch cord and hook up the MD's headphone jack to the line-in of whatever you are recording. Start with the recorder's level at 50% and turn the MD's volume up as needed to get a good signal. When I do it and view the transferred signal, it clearly shows the chopped up ATRAC signal when run through teh line-in of a (1+ year old) SoundBlaster 5.1 soundcard...-so you're not going to be losing a whole lot on the way in doing this. And even so, the MD still sounds far better than any portable cassette recorder, and is 1/3 the price of a DAT.

Re: Mini Disc to Computer

I don't believe so... I had someone bring their MDrecorder to me with a
recording on and asked me to make a CD, handing me their PC-link. After not
getting any response, we read the manual thoroughly and came to the
conclusion that the PC-link was a one-way thing... PC to MD...

Many MiniDisc recorders come with digital optical outputs though... match
it up with a sound card with the same and you can transfer in the digital
domain. If the thought of a new soundcard is too much, just record the
signal into your computer in analogue. MiniDisc is a lossy format anyway
(albeit a very good one!), so you're losing quality as soon as you record
onto it. Chances are that you'll get perfectly adequete analogue transfers,
especially from live recordings which tend to have some background
noise/coughing/sneezing in anyway!

R.

--
Richie Bee
www.richiebee.ca

Re: Mini Disc to Computer

Actually portable MD recorders don't have
a digtal out on them. Only some MD deck
units do. To keep your recordings in the
digtal domain you'll have to invest in a deck. You can use the line out on your
portable and it should sound ok.

Thanks Ron

: Many MiniDisc recorders come with digital optical outputs though... match
: it up with a sound card with the same and you can transfer in the digital

Re: Mini Disc to Computer

: Actually portable MD recorders don't have
: a digtal out on them. Only some MD deck
: units do. To keep your recordings in the
: digtal domain you'll have to invest in a deck. You can use the line out on your
: portable and it should sound ok.

I bought a portable MD recorder when they first came out (before affordable
CD writers!), and it had optical in and out.... just checked Google for new
ones, and hey... they still do!

Rich

--
--
Richie Bee
www.richiebee.ca

Re: Mini Disc to Computer

I dont think so - but I'm not sure!
You can always get them onto computer from the MD LineOut socket to the PC's
LineIn socket.

Cheers

Tim

: I am looking to buy a personal mini disc player/recorder. The models I
: am looking at all have the digital PC link. I know that it can
: transfer songs from the computer to the device, but can you put songs
: that you record to the mini disc player on the computer? I am
: intrested because I would like to record recitals and then burn them
: onto a cd. Any help is appreciated!

: Thanks,
: Andrew
: (First time poster on this ng)

Re: Mini Disc to Computer

Well I think that this is all bull! WE bought a a minidisc for our piano studio so students could critique their playing. They don't have time to re-record their recording (nonetheless setting levels and working software) NOR SHOULD THEY HAVE TO! Don't tell me that a MiniDisc with USB connection can't send information back to the computer. This is some sort of crap by Sony to deprive their customers a feature that is desperately needed (I'd almost go so far as to say a marketing pull) I can only hope someone will devise a hack to pull these AC5 (or whatever they call their dead codec) off the minidisc and into a workable converter (to MP3, wav, etc.)

Mixing Dilemma. Allowing for people's pre-set audio equipment

I mixed down a track with no effects on the amplifier I was listening
through. It sounds great. Then when I switch on the pre-set EQ for
rock or pop, the song is over cooked so-to-speak, and sounded much
muddier and echoed a bit..

Are there any rules or methods to compensate for the inevitable
"extra" EQ added at the listeners end? Should I for example, mix with
my Graphic equaliser ON?

Andy
_______________________________________________________

If I had more time I could be a lot more concise.
(To reply by email - Remove MYMASK)
_______________________________________________________

Andy(ArT)Trigg ™ Aka &y ©

Re: Mixing Dilemma. Allowing for people's pre-set audio equipmen

: I mixed down a track with no effects on the amplifier I was listening
: through. It sounds great. Then when I switch on the pre-set EQ for
: rock or pop, the song is over cooked so-to-speak, and sounded much
: muddier and echoed a bit..

: Are there any rules or methods to compensate for the inevitable
: "extra" EQ added at the listeners end? Should I for example, mix with
: my Graphic equaliser ON?

NO. That is the worst thing you could possibly do. What you want is to be
able to hear your music as accurately as possible, not color it even more.
Besides, then you would just be mixing so that it sound good on your eq - I
don't see how that would help anybody else...

What is your monitoring (mixing) environment? Are you using proper studio
monitors and amp? Monitors (as opposed to hi-fi speakers) are designed to
give a flat sound, so you can hear what is actually going on.

Now, obviously not everyone can afford nice monitors (even my shitty
monitors aren't ideal), so basically what you need to do is burn a CD and
listen to it in a bunch of different systems - a shitty boom-box, the car, a
club system, whatever .. and make minor adjustments so that it sounds as
good as possible on as wide a variety of systems as possible. Even
professional engineers with pro-studio mixing environments A/B stuff like
this to check their mixes. Many studios have multiple speaker systems
installed for this purpose.

One tip - make sure your individual instruments are eq'ed properly .. you
want to cut the bass from instruments that don't really use bass - hihats,
whatever - even if you can't hear it, it might be interfering and "muddying"
up the bass that you *want* to hear. Similarly you want to tone down the
high-end on bassy instruments to minimize any extraneous noise. Basically
you want to make sure that the sounds are sitting only in the range that
they primarily use, and not stepping on each other ..

This is often the cause of stuff sounding shitty on different systems, where
sounds you can't even hear on your speakers become more obvious (and
problematic) on other peoples systems.. The idea is to get rid of the
extraneous shit, and leave only the sound you want - it will help your
accuracy a bunch ..

Here are some links to audio tutorials that will help:

http://www.studiocovers.com/articles.htm
http://www.getimo.de/linkpage2/html/tuts_common.php
http://www.fortunecity.com/tinpan/average/1196/Audio%20Tutorials.htm

Good luck!

Good points...

There are some good points there from Sinatra Y2K..

I would add that a mastering compressor goes a long way there. If those preset eq's make more of a difference to your music than they do to a commercially pressed CD, then it's telling you something about the overall blend and dynamics of your mix.

Follow the Low-Pass, Hi-Pass suggestions of the above message on the correct instruments. Master it with some compression and maybe some bottom reducing eq. So many people go on and on about the value of Bass frequencies around the 20-80hz bandwidth but I generally reduce them quite fully. There is nothing worse than coming to a mastering stage and realising the low frequencies are too dominant in the mix. Solution, Multi-band Compression. Compression that you can adjust for different bandwidths. Give it a go, drop some of that bottom end off and see what you end up with.

Remember. People DO adjust the eq on their hi-fi's. Many of the people I know have the bass and treble controls at full on as a matter of course. If it sounds better to them, then so be it. Car hi-fi's often end up with the Loudness control on permanently. Some portable stereos have Bass Boosts left on.

Make sure 'your' mix isn't in a state that it will take out their speakers for good..

:))

SteveR

Fruity Loops and Sample Substaining and Cutoff.

Fruity Loops and Sample Substaining and Cutoff.

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